Vietnam Calling North - With Traveler Erik Peters

Day 1 – Arrival in Hanoi

At Hanoi Airport you will be welcomed by our driver. On the way to the hotel you will already see what makes the capital so unique: thousands of mopeds moving like a loudly honking school of fish surrounding the other road users. Chaotic, yet fascinatingly harmonious. Once we arrive in the Old Quarter there is time to relax a little before we dive into the hustle and explore the old town of Hanoi on foot. After a pleasant walk and our first dinner together we end the evening in Beer Street – with a cold Bia Hoi, street music and conversations with locals and travelers from around the world. The perfect start to our Vietnam adventure. If you have more time, it is worth booking an additional night before the tour. You can also reserve this directly with us.

Day 2 – Hanoi - Mai Chau

We leave the bustle of Hanoi behind and enter a sea of green. The road winds through an increasingly mountainous landscape, passing small villages, teak forests and bright green rice fields. We climb up into the mountains over the Thung Khe Pass. At the top an impressive view opens over the valley of Mai Chau. At the roadside we taste our first snacks from the mountain tribes: colorful sticky rice and fresh sugarcane – simple delicacies that taste like adventure. In the afternoon we reach our hotel, idyllically located at the edge of the rice fields. Here the first riding day ends in complete peace – with a cold drink in hand and the gentle sound of crickets in the warm evening air.

Day 3 - Mai Chau – Mộc Châu

Today we take it easy. Instead of covering many kilometers we simply let ourselves drift through the wide valley of Mai Chau, passing endless rice fields and small villages where life follows the rhythm of the seasons. Again and again we stop and talk with rice farmers. Thanks to our Vietnamese guide doors open that would otherwise remain closed – a smile, a short conversation, perhaps even a spontaneous invitation for tea. Along small backroads we continue to Mộc Châu, a region known for its tea hills, fruit orchards and fresh mountain air.

Day 4 - Mộc Châu – Mù Cang Chải

Today a stage awaits us that is as demanding as it is impressive. After Mộc Châu we leave the plateau and enter a world full of contrasts: mist covered valleys, rugged rocks, dusty villages and green mountain slopes stretching endlessly along the horizon. The scent of fresh tea, glowing wood fires and damp earth accompanies us while water buffalo calmly cross the road. With a small ferry we cross the Black River – a short but unforgettable moment on our way through the wild mountain world of northern Vietnam. The closer we get to Mù Cang Chải the more spectacular the scenery becomes: endless switchbacks wind through the famous rice terraces, which in October shimmer in beautiful shades of green and yellow. In the evening we reach our hotel overlooking the river and the terraced fields – a peaceful place to end the day.

Day 5 - Mù Cang Chải – Sa Pa

We start the day with a true series of curves along a rugged reservoir. The route leads through one of the most sparsely populated regions of Vietnam – past old water wheels, dark green tea hills and scattered wooden houses, deep into the wild mountain landscape of northern Vietnam. We pass small villages and markets where women of the Hmong and Dao tribes offer their colorful fabrics. The scent of grilled meat mixes with petrol, wood smoke and jungle – a smell typical of northern Vietnam that immediately stays with you. Shortly before our destination a real highlight awaits: the legendary O Quy Ho Pass. With its endless switchbacks and spectacular views it is considered the “King of the Northwest Mountain Passes” – a dream for every motorcycle rider. In the late afternoon we reach Sa Pa – the pearl of the north, surrounded by rice terraces and rugged peaks. The climate up here is cooler and the air clearer. Between roaming Hmong traders, French cafés and fragrant street food stalls, Sa Pa almost feels European – yet unmistakably Vietnamese.

Day 6 - Rest Day in Sa Pa

After the last intense riding days we enjoy a free day in Sa Pa. The town lies at around 1,500 meters above sea level at the foot of the mighty Fansipan – the highest mountain in Vietnam. French colonial houses, colorful markets and the scent of freshly fried street food give the place an atmosphere somewhere between the Alps and Asia. Those who feel like being active can take a hike through the rice terraces to the villages of Cat Cat or Ta Phin, where Hmong and Dao families show their traditional craftsmanship. Alternatively, a cable car takes us up to Fansipan in just 15 minutes – the “Roof of Indochina.” At the top a temple complex awaits with a monumental Buddha statue. On clear days the view stretches far across the mountain ranges. Often the temples lie in dense mist, from which the statues appear only as silhouettes while the quiet sound of bells and distant prayers create an almost magical atmosphere.

Day 7 - Sa Pa – Bac Ha

We leave Sa Pa and enter the fascinating world of the ethnic mountain tribes of northern Vietnam. The route to Bac Ha is a true pleasure for motorcycle riders – narrow roads, tight curves and breathtaking views of rugged peaks and lush green valleys. Along the Song Lo River our route leads through remote villages where residents still channel their drinking water from the mountains through long bamboo pipes. Near Viet Quang we turn off, pass the old bamboo water wheels of Nghia Do and slowly leave civilization behind. For around 30 kilometers we are accompanied only by birds, wind and the steady sound of our engines – pure freedom. As soon as the first rice terraces appear along the road, Bac Ha is not far away. Every Sunday the quiet town transforms into a colorful spectacle: at the famous market people from different ethnic mountain tribes gather in traditional clothing to trade, talk and meet. Young Hmong dress up to impress the opposite sex, while the older generation offers their crops or bargains for a new water buffalo. A scene that feels like another time – lively, authentic and deeply moving.

Day 8 - Bac Ha – Ha Giang

Today one of the most beautiful stages in Vietnam awaits us – both in terms of riding and landscape a true highlight. After Bac Ha the road leads deeper and deeper into the karst plateau of Ha Giang, passing bright green rice terraces, pine forests and small villages where life still moves to the rhythm of nature. The asphalt winds through a spectacular mountain landscape – sometimes narrow and curving, sometimes wide and open. A particularly impressive section lies at the Quan Ba Heaven Gate, where the valley spreads out below us like a green sea and the distinctive “Twin Mountains” rise from it like waves of stone. After around 140 kilometers we reach Ha Giang – the gateway to the legendary Ha Giang Loop. Today the town is a lively meeting place for motorcycle travelers from around the world who come here to recharge, exchange stories and prepare for the adventures waiting in the wild north of Vietnam.

Day 9 - Ha Giang – Du Già

Beyond Ha Giang begins one of the most beautiful motorcycle routes in Vietnam. The road winds through the majestic mountain landscape – an endless up and down between rugged rock walls, rice terraces and small villages of the Hmong and Tay. Again and again waterfalls rush over moss covered rocks, their spray cooling the air and giving the scenery a magical atmosphere. We take our time, stop and enjoy the views across the valleys – perhaps with a refreshing swim beneath one of the waterfalls. The winding mountain roads are pure riding pleasure: hairpin after hairpin, curve after curve, passing tea fields, banana plants and dense jungle. In the afternoon we reach the remote mountain village of Du Già, nestled in a quiet valley. Here, in the heart of the Du Già Nature Reserve, we stay overnight in a cozy homestay overlooking the rice fields. If you like, you can take a short walk to the waterfall – a jump into the clear mountain water before the sun disappears behind the mountains.

Day 10 - Du Già – Đồng Văn

From Du Già our route continues through the northern part of the Ha Giang Loop – a stage full of scenic highlights. The road winds in endless curves through the impressive Đồng Văn Karst Plateau, which has been recognized by UNESCO as a Global Geopark. We pass through remote valleys, ride past bizarre rock formations and meet the people of the Hmong, Tay and Dao minorities who live here in the mountains. Again and again grand views open across rice terraces, deep gorges and tiny villages clinging to the slopes. Along the way we stop at small markets where colorful fabrics, fragrant spices and curious looks await us. In the afternoon we reach Đồng Văn, an old market town not far from the Chinese border. Between historic trading houses and colorful lanterns the day slowly comes to an end – filled with the feeling of truly having arrived in the heart of the north.

Day 11 - Đồng Văn – Bao Lac

From Dong Van our route leads over the legendary Ma Pi Leng Pass – one of the most spectacular panoramic roads in Southeast Asia. In endless curves it winds along the mountainside high above the turquoise Nho Que River, which flows through the gorge like a blue green ribbon of silk. Again and again viewpoints invite us to stop – and each time it is difficult to take our eyes away from this immense scenery. After Meo Vac the road becomes narrower and the world quieter. The mountains move closer together and in the valleys small villages cling to the slopes. Children wave to us laughing from the roadside while the sun bathes the rocks in golden light. In the afternoon we reach Bao Lac, a quiet town in a narrow valley. After a day full of curves, altitude and wide views this is the perfect place to pause and let the impressions of this unforgettable day settle in.

Day 12 - Bao Lac – Ban Gioc

Today our route leads deep into Cao Bang Province – one of the wildest and at the same time most beautiful regions of northern Vietnam. On tiny roads we follow the Chinese border – just us, our motorcycles, the road and untouched nature. With every kilometer further east the landscape becomes more dramatic: karst cliffs rise from emerald green rice fields, rivers wind through remote valleys and water buffalo move calmly through the morning light. Vietnam reveals its most original side here – wild, raw and beautiful. In the afternoon we reach the Ban Gioc Waterfalls – a natural spectacle of superlatives. Over several tiers the Quay Son River plunges almost 300 meters wide and more than 50 meters deep into the gorge. Only a few meters away runs the border with China, and on the other side visitors drift past on small bamboo rafts, almost within reach. Early risers experience a special magic here: when morning mist lies over the water the world seems to stand still for a moment.

Day 13 - Ban Gioc – Ba Be Lake

After a final look at the roaring Ban Gioc Waterfalls we set off for the second to last stage of our journey. The route between Ban Gioc and Ba Be Lake is an absolute dream: passing traditional villages we ride along quiet roads through dense jungle. At most you may be slowed down by a water buffalo or a group of chickens enjoying the warm asphalt. In the afternoon we reach Ba Be National Park – a paradise of wild, untamed nature. Around Vietnam’s largest natural freshwater lake, Ba Be Lake, tropical forests stretch out, from which karst cliffs rise up to 1,600 meters high. Along the shores live several ethnic minorities who still maintain their traditional way of life and – besides the still young tourism – mainly live from fishing and agriculture. Especially early in the morning when mist drifts across the lake and the world becomes quiet, this place reveals its full magic – peaceful, timeless and complete.

Day 14 - Ba Be Lake – Hanoi

The final stage of our journey begins quietly. Before the day awakens the lake lies still – as if silently saying goodbye. From Ba Be National Park we ride down into the valley – through dense forests, across narrow bridges and past the first small villages. The road follows the course of the river until the hills begin to open up. After Thai Nguyen the traffic becomes heavier and more and more mopeds fill the streets – the familiar chaos announces our return to civilization. Finally we reach Hanoi – the embodiment of Vietnamese energy. An endless chorus of horns, mopeds weaving past each other by millimeters and in the air the scent of petrol, street food and strong coffee. During our farewell dinner together we look back on the past days – filled with impressions that will stay with us for a long time.

Day 15 - Hanoi - Departure

If your journey ends on this day, the transfer to the airport takes place depending on your flight time. In your luggage: countless impressions, encounters and the feeling of freedom on two wheels. Memories that remain – until the next adventure.

If you have booked the extension in Halong Bay, you leave the city early in the morning heading towards the coast.

Extension: Halong Bay

If you wish, you can extend the journey by two days and experience the world famous Halong Bay – a UNESCO World Heritage Site with striking karst cliffs rising steeply from the water and forming a unique landscape. However, the bay is very heavily visited and after the impressive motorcycle tour it may also be perceived as overcrowded.

Day 15 – Hanoi – Halong Bay

In the morning you will be picked up at the hotel and driven to the coast in about four hours. The first views of the limestone cliffs of Halong Bay are already impressive. Around midday you board a traditional boat together with other international guests. As the cruise through the bizarre rock formations begins, you experience the special atmosphere of this landscape. Along the way there are opportunities for stops – for example to visit a cave or smaller islands. The night is spent on board, surrounded by the scenery of the bay.

Day 16 – Halong Bay – Hanoi

After breakfast your stay on the boat ends and you travel back to Hanoi. The landscape changes noticeably: from the coast through rice fields and villages to the lively capital. In the afternoon there is time to explore Hanoi on your own – whether a walk through the narrow streets of the Old Quarter or a coffee at Hoan Kiem Lake. Depending on your departure time, you go to the airport in the evening or the following morning.

Day 17 – Departure

Transfer to the airport and return flight. In your luggage: the impressions of Halong Bay and a long motorcycle journey through Vietnam – memories that will stay for a long time.